Light is everything in photography.  there are two ways light enters our camera: the Aperture (the circular opening that can remain very open or very closed when the photo is taken, depending on the effect you want to achieve) and the Shutter Speed, which refers to the length of time the shutter remains open when you snap a photo.

Shutter Speed is what we’ll briefly discuss today.

the shutter is the device inside your camera that “clicks” when you take the photo. The shutter speed refers to the length of time the shutter stays open when you’re taking a photo:

* The LONGER the shutter stays open, the MORE light enters the camera.
* The SHORTER the amount of time the shutter is open, the LESS light enters the camera. How much light you allow into the camera, and how you use the Aperture and Shutter Speed to allow in the light, will determine what your photo looks like.

Remember, light is everything.

Shutter Speed is measured in seconds or fractions of a second: a shutter speed of 1 (”one second”) would be considered a slow shutter speed, while a shutter speed of 1/1000 (or, “one one-thousandth of a second’) would be considered a fast shutter speed. While the Aperture setting is used to control Depth-of-Field (how much of the photo is in focus), Shutter Speed is used to convey the motion of the subject in your photo.

For example, imagine a person quickly flying across your line of sight. If your shutter speed was set to 1 (one second), it would result in blurred motion since a lot of movement would happen over the period of a second

Now, if the shutter speed was set to 1/1000 (one one-thousandth of a second), it would result in a photo in which the subject’s action was frozen; it would capture that tiny moment in time without any blur:

Capturing motion: This is the purpose of shutter speed.

* Very short shutter speeds (meaning, the camera clicks really fast) are used to freeze fast-moving subjects (a racing car, a child jumping on hay bales)
* Very long shutter speeds are used to capture motion (the trails of fireworks).

So here were are so far:

1. Aperture setting controls depth-of-field
a. A wide-open aperture (low number, such as f1.4) lets in more light and results in a shallow depth of field (subject in focus, background blurred).
b. A smaller aperture (large number, such as f22) lets in less light and results in a larger depth of field (everything in focus)

2. Shutter Speed setting controls the motion
a. A slow shutter speed (meaning, the shutter remains open for a longer amount of time) lets in more light and results in blurred motion
b. A fast shutter speed (meaning, the shutter remains open for a fraction of a second) lets in less light and freezes action.

I’ll let you absorb that for a minute or eighty.

we’ll talk about using Aperture Priority (A) and Shutter Priority (S or Tv) on your camera, and how to decide which one to use.

After that, we’ll work our way toward going full manual (M).

As a matter of fact, “Photos” is the Greek word for “Light.” Anyway, light is everything in photography, and how much (or how little) light enters your camera determines what your ultimate photo will look like.

If too much light enters the camera, the photo will be OVEREXPOSED, or TOO BRIGHT, or BLOWN OUT.

TOO MUCH LIGHT=OVEREXPOSED=BLOWN OUT PHOTO.

If too little light enters the camera, the photo will be UNDEREXPOSED, or TOO DARK, or…well, BLACK.

TOO LITTLE LIGHT=UNDEREXPOSED=BLACK PHOTO.

But the right amount of light allowed into the camera will result in a photo that is properly exposed, or JUST RIGHT.

“But How Does Light Enter the Camera?”
How much light enters the camera depends on two different things:

1. The Aperture
2. The Shutter Speed

(ISO setting also affects exposure)

I had no clue what either Aperture or Shutter Speed meant when I picked up my camera for the first time, so let me break it down for you. And remember: I’m not a professional, which means I’m basically just feeling my way through this. So if something I say doesn’t make sense, please stone me in the public square so I can rephrase it.

1. The APERTURE is the circular mechanism inside your camera that opens and closes when a picture is taken. You can set the aperture to remain very open when the picture is taken, or you can set it to close very tightly when the picture is taken, and all degrees in between. The larger the aperture remains open when the photo is taken, the MORE light will enter the camera for each shot. The more tightly the aperture is allowed to close, the LESS light will enter the camera. The settings of the aperture openings are called “F-stops.” The confusing thing about the aperture is this: the larger the opening, the smaller the number. So:

f22 would mean a very tightly closed aperture opening.
f1.4 would mean a very wide open aperture opening.

Which aperture you choose often depends on the depth of field you want. In layman’s terms, DOF (depth-of-field) refers to how much of the photo is in focus and how much is blurry.

A very shallow depth of field would mean the subject (a person, a flower) is in focus, but the background is very blurred.

These were taken with an aperture setting of 4.2—a low number, a large opening. (Just think about how difficult it is to focus when you have your pupils dilated! It’s because the “aperture” or pupil is wide open!) If your pupils had just been dilated and you were trying to stare at these horses, it would be difficult to focus. The background would probably be blurry and you might be able to make out the horses, but that’s it.

A very large depth of field would mean everything in the photo (a wide landscape, trees in the foreground, mountains in the background) are equally in focus:
I realize there are no mountains or trees here. But this shot was taken with a small aperture, about f22. Notice how the grass, the cows, and the trees are all (pretty much) in focus?

Here’s another one:

In focus as far as the eye can see.

SO.

If you want a very shallow depth of field (background blurry), you’d choose a very large aperture opening, which would be a very low number. (f2.8)

If you want a very large depth of field (everything in focus), you’d choose a very small aperture opening, which would be a higher number. (like f22)

I’ll let you digest this, then next time, we’ll see how you coordinate the Aperture setting with the Shutter Speed setting.

soft brush 20%

Opacity 50%

Paint under dark circles of eyes

You can lower opacity if it looks fake

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How to Lessen Wrinkles

Duplicate layer

Use Spot healing brush

Paint over wrinkles

Use soft brush about size 9

or use clone stamp tool

lower opacity

brush over wrinkles

or

Filter

Blur

Lower opacity

add new layer in between background and layer 1

lower opacity

brush paint

or quick selection tool

select object

(alt subtracts)

Ctrl C

Get another picture and open it

Ctrl D

Ctrl T

Drag it inward

(Control T transforms)

hue and saturation level can enhance color

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Retouching

Bluish Cast – portrait

Enhance

Adjust color

Adjust color skin tone

Click on skin

Work on temp on light

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Remove blemishes

Clone stamp tool

Alt Key

Lower opactiy – size brush

more subtle

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Lessoning Freckles or Acne

Image

Ctrl J

Duplicate layer

filter

blur

gausion blur – 5 pixels

too blurry -

new layer in between

alt key will clip top layer

brush tool

D

Opacity low – (23 – 28%)

paint on layer

(but not lips eyes or nose)

slect the whites of the eyes

duplicate layer

Magnify zoom in the magnifying glass

Alt to make a selection

Control J

Hue and saturate layer adjustment

Pull down red

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To Fix eye Color

lower opacity

brush foreground

black

(layer)

click

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To Make Eyes Sparkle

Duplicate Layer

Magnifying glass

Filter or enhance

Sharpen

Unsharp Mask

Adjust to 50% – 100%

Rad 1 -2 pixels

Click on B

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Control T

Drag in 5 – 10%

Return or <enter>

Control D

Select layer: Blend: Darken Mode: 50%

using Clone stamp

Adjust opacity 70%

Brush around hotspot

using rubber stamp tool get rid of glare

Double click

Adjust Layer

Choose Yellow scale down to 60%

Select Lightness (increase or descrease the level of lightness level…